Big Ben of Buenos Aires

Big Ben of Buenos Aires
Originally uploaded by maujb.

Buenos Aires went through a period of building replicas of other countries' famous structures. This is a BA Big Ben. They also have an Obelisc that looks like the Washington monument and their capital building is a replica of the Washington Capital building, and their college of law is similar to the Lincoln monument.

Gotta take this opportunity to wish Happy Birthdays to Jim, Lia, Valerie, Eileen, Todd, Kathy, Gail and Juan.
Much love to all our Leos and Virgos!!!

Love the comments and the attention. Don't forget to sign so we know who you are.

Recoleta Cemetario, Buenos Aires

Recoleta Cemetario, Buenos Aires
Originally uploaded by maujb.

All the tourists come to the cemetary to party. This is where Evita (don't cry for me Argentina) Peron is buried along with a lot of old money, politicos, and military folk. Nope, we didn't find Hitler's grave here despite the rumors.

There really is a duende!

There really is a duende!
Originally uploaded by maujb.

I feel so vindicated! I found the duende of the house!

Here we are in lovely Buenos Aires in the San Telmo neighborhood famous for its cobblestone streets, art scene and tango. We've now been in BA for almost 2 weeks and some of the shine is off the rose. Though still beautiful, you need to keep your eyes on the sidewalk lest you trample through one of the many piles of doggy-poo that appear under foot without warning. We're talking world class amounts of poo here.

On a similar note, we are in the euro-influenced world of smokers. People still think it's cool here at least for a few more years. Remember smoking sections in restaurants? Mmmmm, hmmmm. Cough, cough.
All you smokers suck!!!

Guayaquil: the land of the lost

Guayaquil: the land of the lost
Originally uploaded by maujb.

In keeping with the dinosaur theme here are some modern dinosaurs that live in Parque Bolivar in Guayaquil. There are lots and lots (50 or so) of these iguanas living in this public parque.

Friggin´ Frigate

Friggin´ Frigate
Originally uploaded by maujb.

From a far, these birds resemble pteradactyls flying across the sky but upclose they look like big black birds with a glandular problem. Hot thyroid nodule anyone?

They get along well with the blue footed boobies. Ooops sorry if that triggered your computer`s anti-porn block again.

Pair of boobies

Pair of boobies
Originally uploaded by maujb.

Ha ha ha we said boobies, hope you don`t have a child safety porn block on your computer or else you`ll miss this great boobie shot!

These are the famous blue footed boobies of Isla de la Plata. Although, the truth is these boobies have to be appreciated up close and in-person. We`re talking a lot of grade-A "talent" on this island. Boo-yah!

Waving Humpback Whales

Waving Humpback Whales
Originally uploaded by maujb.

Don may not agree with me that this shot was impressive but it was hard to get a good whale shot. The thing about humpback whales is that they are very camera shy. And although they jump, breach, wave and flick their tales they prefer not to be photographed.

The humpbacks swim up from Antarctica every year to calf their young in the warm waters at the equator. They party, dance and "hump" the nights away and the females often return to Antarctica pregnant. What are you gonna do?

Porto Lopez: Dancing days are here again

Porto Lopez: Dancing days are here again
Originally uploaded by maujb.

The beach of Puerto Lopez is a perfect crescent with jagged rocks and vultures at either end and the middle packed with fishing boats and batido (heavenly fresh fruit smoothies) stands.

Led Zeppelin used to party here in the 70s and they loved the batidos!

Happy Hour at Friales

Happy Hour at Friales
Originally uploaded by maujb.

With only a week or so left in Ecuador we went to yet another "Poor Man`s Galapagos". This time it was Puerto Lopez, Ecuador.

This sweet tranquilo fishing town had all the ceviche, cold brews and capiriñas that you could ask for for real cheap.

Frailes is part of Parque Machalilla which includes Isla de la Plata. Here we hiked on different beaches saw whales, crabs and ate yummy local hiking snacks like platano chips. The things they do with bananas here!

Family of cuyes

Family of cuyes
Originally uploaded by maujb.

Wow! We`re overwhelmed with the amount of love and comments pouring in from friends and family. You guys are the best. We love you! Keep up the great comments except don`t feel you HAVE to share your bowel habits, but if you do, you know, that`s cool too.

We`re back dating some new photos and stories so it`s back to Ecuador.

On our return to Baños, one of our favorite towns, we came upon the tragic loss of a family of guinea pigs (cuyes) whose home and extended family were lost in a BBQ accident. The guinea pigs always seemed to get a good reaction so here`s one more. Enjoy!

Is anybody out there?

Is anybody reading this blog anymore? It's been quiet on the comments side of things so make some noise! Let's get this party started! Or as the lovely Anna would say, "Let's start this party starting!"
We have arrived in Buenos Aires and the party has started. We rented an apartment near Parque Retiro, their version of Central Park NYC, in this really nice neighborhood called Palermo. Yes, Italian-inspired and very european. No pan flutes! The people are wonderful, the food is incredible (ahhhh, the steaks, mmmmm), and the wine is awesome. Everything is very affordable so we are living like kings and queens. Every night it's thick steaks, boquerones (fresh sardines), tiramisu or flan, a bottle of fine wine, and espressos for like $30 in total. We had to join a gym, seriously!, so as not to double our weight in the month that we are in BsAs.

The walking palm tree

The walking palm tree
Originally uploaded by maujb.

This tree can "walk" several centimeters a year by putting down shoots and pulling itself along toward water or light. Amazing.
We also sample a bit of the bark of the Quinine tree, used as a treatment for malaria. Ironically, malaria came from Africa where there are no quinine trees and was brought to South America during the slave trade years. The indians had a cure for a disease that was not yet known.
Another interesting tree is known as the "telephone" tree, as the drumming on the tree can be heard from miles and was used as a signal for such important events as lunchtime and "beer o'clock" by the natives for millenia.

The most famous froggy in the world

The most famous froggy in the world
Originally uploaded by maujb.

If you look closely you can see the famous poisonous amazon froggy whose poison is used on blowdarts. The poison can paralyze a Monk Saki Monkey in 6 seconds but didn't seem to have any affect on out guide Luis. Over his 12 years of trek leading in the Amazon he seems to have built up quite a tolerance to the poison.

Oh the shark has . . .

Oh the shark has . . .
Originally uploaded by maujb.

Pearly teeth dear.
The photo is kinda fuzzy but take my word for it dee´s buggahs have razor sharp teeth and you have to take great care removing the hook because they will snap at your fingers and possibly remove a digit if you aren´t careful.

Piraña for dinner?

Piraña for dinner?
Originally uploaded by maujb.

Let´s go fishin´ with lil Donnie. Piraña pot, piraña pot, piraña pot-PIE!
This was the easiest fishing we´ve ever done. You just put a hunk of beef on a hook and drop it the water. The water starts to bubble and boil some'em like out of a James Bond movie. You only live twice, Mr Bond.
We couldn´t eat this one because it was full of parasites (red piraña species). We also caught white pirañas and the elusive black spectacled piraña.
Thanks for the warning Kurt, these pirañas never had penis for dinner.

You can`t eat this ant!

You can`t eat this ant!
Originally uploaded by maujb.

There were so many species of ants here. This was the largest ant (1 inch) we saw and he carried a very poisonous sting.
Other ants we saw included the leaf cutter ants, army ants, tiny poisonous ants, and tasty lemon ants that we even ate! YUM!

Alien pod or termite nest?

Alien pod or termite nest?
Originally uploaded by maujb.

The jungle was littered with these pods everywhere. Some were termite nests and some were ant or wasp nests. Some were as large as 4ft long. It was hard for us to tell the difference. Fortunately our guide could tell the difference.

Blue bird of paradise

Blue bird of paradise
Originally uploaded by maujb.

We saw so many pretty birdies. On one of the hikes through primary and secondary forests we were able to get a pic of this one.
On the same hike we visited a small Siona community of 14 families. We learned how to make casava bread from yucca and then had lunch with the family in their home.

Could that be a Monk Saki Monkey?

Could that be a Monk Saki Monkey?
Originally uploaded by maujb.

Why yes as a matter of fact it is a Monk Saki Monkey, but don´t get too close or he´ll throw nuts, branches or even poop on you. This alpha-male of the clan is very protective of his family.
We also saw black mantle tamarins and lots of common squirrel monkeys and a couple other species that we can´t remember the names for but were pretty entertaining.

Tarantula en la cabaña

Tarantula en la cabaña
Originally uploaded by maujb.

At night the tarantulas would come down from the thatched roofs to feed on insects and small children. Our cabañas were comfy open air with nets over the beds to keep out the mosquitos, tarantulas and caimans.
We named this tarantula Maria Alanzo Conchita del Rio. A long name for a cuddly little spider.

Mau floats with pirañas and caimans

Mau floats with pirañas and caimans, originally uploaded by maujb.

The guides insisted that the pirañas and caimans never ventured beyond the shores to the center of the lagoon, but I swear I felt a nibble.
In the trees along the edge of the lagoon we saw turtles, amazon ducks, herons, black vultures, hawks, five species of monkeys and these crazy squawking turkey-like birds called Hoatzins.

Flooded Forest, Cuyabeno Reserve

Flooded Forest, Cuyabeno Reserve
Originally uploaded by maujb.

Nine months out of the year this forest is flooded with rain water that flows from the rivers and fills this lagoon 20-30ft deep. The water in the lagoon is clear but stained brownish black like tea from the tannins in the flora. In the remaining three months this laguna is completely dry and full of futbol fields.
We paddled canoes and went bird watching in the mornings. We would see toucans in the trees and river dolphins in the water. In the hot afternoons we would swim.

Entering the Heart of Darkness

Entering the Heart of Darkness
Originally uploaded by maujb.

The horror. The horror.
Truth be told it wasn´t all that horrible it was quite beautiful, tranquil and peaceful. We took a 7 hour bus ride from Quito to Lago Agrio where we met up with others on the jungle trek through the Cuyabeno Reserve. We then took a three hour truck ride then a two hour canoe ride down the Cuyabeno river to the base camp. All in all, we decended from the Sierras at 11,000ft to the Oriente at 1000ft and nobody's head imploded.

Chillin on the rio in Mindo

Chillin on the rio in Mindo
Originally uploaded by maujb.

After the hike out to the butterfly farm we enjoyed a well deserved Pilsener on the river and watched people float by on innertubes.

Mariposa means butterfly

Mariposa means butterfly
Originally uploaded by maujb.

If you smeared banana on your finger you could get a butterfly to sit on your finger. Don was smearing banana all over his body. YUM!

Mau in Mindo`s Mariposario

Mau in Mindo`s Mariposario
Originally uploaded by maujb.

A weekend in Mindo was the antedote to a stressful week in Quito. The locals call it Mindo Lindo referring to its beauty and tranquility (Don wants to write for the Lonely Planet when he grows up).
In Mindo we stayed in a cute rustic cabaña surrounded by orchids. We visited the butterfly farm where they had numerous species of beautiful butterflies.

Guayasamin

Guayasamin
Originally uploaded by maujb.

This is one of our favorites of Guayasamin and one of his Picasso influenced pieces.

Quito, Ecuador - Guayasamin

Quito, Ecuador - Guayasamin
Originally uploaded by maujb.

This is a dark interpretation of Quito by Oswaldo Guayasamín. We visted Guayasamin´s home/museum while we were in Quito. Guaysamin was a contemporary of Picasso, and Diego Rivera. He did political works in similar style.
Quito was indeed dark and we decided to cut our time there shorter as we would hear every morning in the hostel or at Mau´s spanish class of another gringo being robbed at knife point by the local ladrones.
We did manage to have fun drinking beers with the Quiteños and watching the rivalery futbol match between Liga (Quito) and Barcelona (Guayaquil). There was a promotion of two for one pitchers of beer and a free Pilsener t-shirt. Pilsener is the local brew.