Monday, October 17, 2005

San Martin de Los Andes on Lago Lacar

Just a few minutes after we took this pic the clouds darkened and dumped rain that soaked us to the bone. Spring showers bring October flowers right? You know that saying?

This month we hit our five-month travel mark and also celebrated twenty months together. Yeah!!

Also, happy birthdays going out to Mary Lynn and Kate. And all those other great October events we forgot to mention leave them in your comments that we LOVE so much!

Mirador Bandurrias, San Martin de Los Andes

San Martin de Los Andes is North of Bariloche and sits on Lago Lacar. San Martin is famous for its fresh and smoked game meats, jabali (wild boar), ciervo (venison), trucha (rainbow trout), as well as its chocolate, berries and ice cream.

Mirador Bandurrias is part of Mapuche land holding. The Mapuche are native americans who resisted colonialization by the Spanish, Germans, Portugues until the late 19th century. The Mapuche people continue to resist colonialization by Rambo and Ted Turner to this day.

Glacier Torrecillas of Parque Los Alerces

Another great view of Patagonian beauty. You can see the glacier in the left-most mountain of this picture. We had this park almost entirely to ourselves.

Rio Arrayanes, Parque de Alerces


Rio Arrayanes, Parque de Alerces
Originally uploaded by maujb.
South of Bariloche is the sweet little villa of Esquel. The Parque Alerces is a pristine glacier cut valley filled with more crystal clear lakes and rivers. Much of the surrounding wilderness has been purchased by wealthy North Amercians like Ted Turner and Sylvester Stallone (locals know him as Rambo) in order to keep the land protected from other rich people who threaten to buy up all the land.

I'm a snow bunny, dammit!


I'm a snow bunny, dammit!
Originally uploaded by maujb.
This winter lasted well into October this year and the ski runs are still open here in Bariloche, not that we did any skiing. We`re way too drunk for that nonsense. Someone could break an ankle or something.

Did we mention Yerba Mate is good for hangovers?

Mau sippin' mate in Llao Llao "sha-ow sha-ow"

We finally bowed to the social pressures and invested in our own mate tea service. Yerba Mate is a cultural institution here in Argentina. And much like the 20 ounce cup of coffee in Northern California, Mate is enjoyed along river banks, on hikes, and in all manner of nature loving situation.

Yerba Mate (pronounced "yerba mahtay") is a medicinal and cultural drink of ancient origins. Introduced to the world by the Guarani Indians of South America, Mate is said to boost immunity, cleanse and detoxify the blood, tone the nervous system, restore youthful hair color, retard aging, combat fatigue, move objects with the mind, control the appetite, reduce the effects of debilitating disease, reduce stress, reverse impotence, and alleviate insomnia.

Doesn't Mau look healthy in this picture?

Isla Victoria in Lago Nahual Huapi


Isla Victoria in Lago Nahual Huapi
Originally uploaded by maujb.
Old growth evergreens more than 30 meters high. Kind of reminds us of northern California. Thankfully these forests have been protected by the National Parks and its amazing to see so much primary forest.

Is that a grove of Arrayanes?


Is that a grove of Arrayanes?
Originally uploaded by maujb.
This beautiful orange-wooded park is part of the larger Tres Parques, Siete Lagos protected reserve that includes the National Parks of Lanin, Los Arrayanes, and Nahuel Huapi, as well as Bariloche and the towns of San Martin de Los Andes, Junin de los Andes and Villa La Angostura. All founded in the 1930s.

Pristine Patagonia, Bariloche


Pristine Patagonia, Bariloche
Originally uploaded by maujb.
We arrived in the beautiful Bariloche, part of the Lake District, at the end of September. Bariloche sits at the east end of Lago Nahuel Huapi near the border of Chile. The area is know for its, you guessed it, Lakes! and snow sports. There is a strong German/Swiss influence here and the chocolate and microbrews are also excellent.

Colorful Canyon Atuel in Mendoza, Arg.

In contrast to our last hiking experience, we did a lot more driving and a lot less extreme tourism. We passed through Mendoza's countryside with its snow covered mountains, painted canyons, crazy-cool rock formations, and crystal-clear rivers and lakes.

Mendoza, Arg: heart of wine country


Mendoza, Arg: heart of wine country
Originally uploaded by maujb.
Well, here we are in Mendoza where 90% of Argentina's wine growing and production takes place. The wine is outstanding and the price is right. Yes, we visited a few bodegas and sampled the grog. Then we went out to the excellent restaurants and sampled s'more grog. Arrrrggggh! Barrells of vino tinto lindo.
Some bodegas of note include Bianchi and their Don Valentin, Latitud 33 (latitud of Mendoza, of course), Don David, and Fin del Mundo, Bodega Estepa. Argentina is known for the Malbec varietal, somewhat similar to the Cab Sauv.

The city of Mendoza (if you can drag yourself out of the dark bodegas) is warm, sunny, and full of tree-lined streets and cute single story houses.

Always fun until somebody has to go to the ER

The other highlight was this hike through the Sierra foothills. Really more like bushwacking, boulder scrambling, vertical ascents and decents on unmarked trails. Well, really there were no trails whatsoever.

At the beginning of the hike our reckless, fearless leader warned us that the most common injury was ankle sprains, and after 5 hours of intense ups and downs through wildflowers, painted ravines, waterfalls, fields of quartz and cowpies, we were all pretty fatigued. One of the hikers fell and seriously tweaked her ankle, possibly rupturing her tendons. Her foot hung loosely, ankle obviously deformed and dislocated, and the poor lady was writhing on the side of the mountain. We flew into action splinting, elevating, medicating, and performing our nursie magic.

Fortunately, everyone had a cellphone and a decent signal. It only took an hour for the paramedics to scramble straight down from the nearest road and they were able to carry her out. Those guys kicked ass getting in and out. We all kicked some ass that day. Then we kicked our guide's ass.
Just kidding. But we have a great picture of him in the "extra" photos section. Just clic on any pic to see the extras.

Skirt of the foothills of the Sierras of Cordoba

We arrived in Cordoba on September 21st, the first day of spring, there were flowers every where and it was hot and sunny. Cordoba doesn't have the immediate WOW factor of BsAs but the people are more outgoing and friendly. We tried the local drink of Fernet and coke. Think herbal mouthwash in Coca-Cola. Uhhhh, didn't quite warm to that one.

We went to see the Provincial Orchestra of Cordoba play "Tango", a performance of folk music meets opera. Super lovely theatre and the music was beautiful, dramatic, and sexy.