Delicious delicacies of Souq Kchacha

Oooops, forgot to mention the most important part of any country: The Food!

Delicious delicacies of Souq Kchacha
Originally uploaded by crisis-tour.

Possibly the best aspect of Morocco is the food. Walking through the souqs, one is accosted by the vibrant colors and smells of the copious amounts of fruits, nuts, meats and spices. All of them used in the wonderfully flavorful and varied cooked salads, tagines (stews), and cous cous recipes. Flavors such as orange blossom water, cumin, preserved lemon, paprika, turmeric, mint, harissa (chili paste), plums and almonds dance on your tongue at every meal. And some of the spice mixes include 40 or more spices.

The coffee and bread also deserve some honorable mention.

Mmmmmmmmmm!

Another sç§^tty day in paradise

Another sç§^tty day in paradise
Originally uploaded by crisis-tour.

Sunset in Essaouira over the Ile de Mogador, a little island off the coast.

Remember! if you want to see more photos just "click" on any photo. There are now two banks of photos so clicking on a photo will bring you to one bank while clicking on another may bring you to the super-secret extra bank for special visitors. You'll know if you are special if you can locate the second bank.

Happy Birthdays to Renee and Shelley!
Congratulation to James and Anna on their recent nuptuals!
Congratulation to Nicole and Michael on their recent engagement!
Congratulations to Carley and Rob on their wedding!
Congratulations to Belinda on finishing her thesis! Superstar!!
Congratulations to Todd for being Employee of the Year! You rock!!
Welcome home from Iraq John! - glad you're safe and sound
Fond farewell to Buppy. RIP

Today makes 7 months on the road!!!

Happy Holidays to all!

Skala du Port

Skala du Port
Originally uploaded by crisis-tour.

Chill chill chillity-chill.
It's pretty chill here, as you may surmise.
We broke our sobriety here and tried two Moroccan beers and the local rum. Hmmmmmm, let it be known that the muslims know nothing about good drink. It's enough to drive us back to sobriety.

All Along the Watchtower

All Along the Watchtower
Originally uploaded by crisis-tour.

After the intensity of the imperial cities, we came to Essaouira on the Atlantic coast to chill for a spell and soak up some warm sunshine before heading back north into european winter.

A fishing port since the Phoenicians in 7th century BC, it has been visited by all the usual historical peoples including the Portagees, who renamed it Mogador from the Phoenician "migdol" meaning watchtower.

More recent and illustious visitors have included Jimmy Hendrix, Leonard Cohen, Orson Welles, Frank Zappa and Jack LaLane.

Sunset over Koutoubia, Marrakech

Sunset over Koutoubia, Marrakech
Originally uploaded by crisis-tour.

Ooooh, ahhhhh.

Nice soothing sunset shot after all the darkness of the last panel.
Forgiven?

At 70 meters height, Koutoubia minaret is visible for miles in any direction. The word minaret originates from the arabic "alminar", meaning "the place of light" from where the call to prayer emanates five times a day.

How much for the little girl?

How much for the little girl?
Originally uploaded by crisis-tour.

Ar ar ar!

Marrakech is the red city. Local legends are full of rude and vicious blood and thunder stories depicting the origins of the city's red walls being bathed in blood as the soaring minaret was planted in the city's heart. "And they all lived happily ever-after."

See? Like Disneyland.

Oh, please! Don't be offended. Nobody reads this anyway.

Story teller in Djemaa el-Fna, Marrakech

Story teller in Djemma el-Fna, Marrakech
Originally uploaded by crisis-tour.

According to Paul Bowles, "without Djemaa el-Fna Marrakech would be just another moroccan city."

The "DF", as I like to call it, is home to all manner of freaks, from jugglers, lunatics, musicians, story tellers, acrobats, henna artists, snake charmers, and monkey trainers.

We weren't too impressed with the latter and didn't take any photos. The snake charmers sew the mouths of their "deadly" snakes closed rendering them harmless and starving. The monkey trainers, well thats just cruel, man.

This picture does capture some of the frenetic energy and timelessness of the DF.

Marhaba (welcome) to Disneyland Morocco!

Marhaba (welcome) to Disneyland Morocco!
Originally uploaded by crisis-tour.

With its Club Med located on the main plaza and teams of 30 or more costumed water vendors fighting each other to pose for pictures, Marrakech is vastly different in attitude and outlook from cultured Fes.

The new king has put a lot of money into cleaning up Marrakech and taming the once wild faux guides (touts). It is now safe for tourists and their children to shop in the souqs at leisure. There aren't any artisans left but you can find any manner of colorful souvenirs made in korea.

Medersa el-Attarine, Fez

Medersa el-Attarine, Fez
Originally uploaded by crisis-tour.

Fes is the center of learning and culture for Morocco and home of the first university in the world (Kairaouine U.). This medersa (koranic school) was founded in 1325 and housed 70 students.

It displays the arches, mosaic tiles, latice and wood sculpture, and traditional patterns of Merenid artisanship.

Tannery of the Fes Medina

Tannery of the Fez Medina
Originally uploaded by crisis-tour.

Fes has strong artisenal roots stretching back to medieval times and continues to practice these crafts in traditional ways. As strong as these traditions is the stench coming off the tanning pits, a special sauce including bird guano, cow urine, fish oils, animal fats and brains, chromium salts, and sulfuric acid.

Hey Anna, do they Italians do their leather this way too?

No really, we don't want to buy a carpet. Fez, Morocco

No really, we don't want to buy a carpet. Fez, Morocco
Originally uploaded by crisis-tour.

Any trip to a medina necessarily includes a visit to a carpet shop and our visit was no different. The ritual involves pleasant introductions while telling everyone that we don't want to buy anything, followed by sitting down to moroccan tea but reminding them that we don't want to buy anything. This is followed by chats of travels and visits to America while viewing hundreds of carpets, kilims, and hanbels, all the while insisting that we are not going to buy anything. Finally, we extract ourselves from the shop delicately and with many words of appreciation for their fine company and hospitality and flat-out refuse to buy anything.

B'Salema. (I said good day, sir!)

Fes, the symbolic heart of Morocco.

Fes, the symbolic heart of Morocco.
Originally uploaded by maujb.

This quintessential Moroccan city is thought by most of the country, to be the barometer of popular sentiment. It is here that the movement towards Morocco's independence from France and Spain in 1956 originated, and the scene of violent strikes and riots against oppression and poverty in the 1980s.

A disproportionate share of Morocco's economic and intellectual elite hail from Fes and its a widely held belief that anyone born in Fes is more religious, cultured, artistic, and refined. Kind of like San Franciscans. Naturally, King Mohammed VI's new wife is from Fes.

How 'bout a date in Fes?

How 'bout a date in Fes?
Originally uploaded by maujb.

"B'lak!"

That's the first and most important word you learn in the medina. "B'lak" literally means watch your back as heavily-laden donkeys plow through the narrow alleys of the medina. You may be flattened if you don't step aside quick enough. This is a place full of intense sites, sounds, smells and more copious amounts of intensity. Its intense, man.

The Fes medina is the most complex labyrinth of Morocco and it was well worth hiring a guide for the history and the possibilty to find your way home at the end of the experience.

Kasbah of Fes, the Sharif still don't like it!

Kasbah of Fes, the Sharif still don't like it!
Originally uploaded by maujb.

Founded in the 8th century by Moulay Idriss II, Fes started as a modest Berber town but soon grew with the arrival of Andalucian refugees and Arabs from Qayrawan, Tunisia. Today it is the world's largest living medieval city with a population of 1.2 million, 300K living in the old medina.

The medina is divided by the Fes river into two distinct sections, the Andalus and the Kairaouine (Tunisia). Located in the more recently founded (13th century) part of town, Fes el-Jdid is home to the Mellah or the Jewish quarter.

Notice all the newly-dyed leather drying on the walls of the kasbah.

Our riad in Chaouen, Morocco

Our riad in Chaouen, Morocco
Originally uploaded by maujb.

We found a super cute riad (refurbished traditional townhouse set around an internal garden) to detox after our hard drinking weeks with Lisa. It took a visit to an Islamic country to force the issue of sobriety.
As a decent alternative, the Rif Mountains are known for their kif (hashish) production and fully live up to the hype.
Guess where the term "reefer" came from?

Sharif don't like it, rockin' the Kasbah

Sharif don't like it, rockin' the Kasbah
Originally uploaded by maujb.

This 17th century kasbah was originally built to protect the city from unruly Berbers and Spaniards. The tower provides nice views of the town and surrounding Rif mountains. Although The Clash never played here, during the summer months Reggae, Flamenco, and traditional Berber music can be enjoyed.

The blues of Chefchaouen

The blues of Chefchaouen
Originally uploaded by maujb.

Chefchaouen, which literally means "look at the peaks" is referring to the Rif mountains in which this town is situated.

Each of Morocco's towns have their characteristic colors. Originally the walls of Chaouen were yellow and the doors and roofs were the color green that represents Islam. The current pale fluourescent blue-white color of this medina was only recently introduced in the 1930s by Jewish refugee settlers.

The serene and lovely gardens of Tangier.

The serene and lovely gardens of Tangier.
Originally uploaded by maujb.

Contrary to all the horror stories of faux guides, extortion, grime and crime, our brief time in Tangier was warm and tranquil.

While waiting for our bus to Chefchaouen we enjoyed a pleasant breakfast, discussed philosopy and even took in a bit of the Saddam trial on Al Jazeera.

The Strait of Gibraltar

The Strait of Gibraltar
Originally uploaded by maujb.

Taking the ferry across the Strait of Gibraltar was exciting. Straddling Europe and Africa, the points Hercules used to pry the continents apart, and the points visited and held by the Greeks, Romans, and Moors. One of the points like Istanbul where east meets west, but here in Tangier south also meets north.

Tapas at Faustino's in Ronda

Tapas at Faustino's in Ronda
Originally uploaded by maujb.

Faustino's is one of the oldest and best known tapas bars in Ronda. Here you can see Sr. Faustino dazzled by Lisa's knowledge of fine wine and bullfightery.

Check out the hanging hams! Yummmm!

We enjoyed our travels through Andalucia with Lisa and look forward to her company in Southern India.

Plaza de Toros, Ronda

Plaza de Toros, Ronda
Originally uploaded by maujb.

Ronda is also famous for its bullring. It is the oldest, the largest and the most beautiful bullring to be found in Spain. Being the largest ring also makes it the most dangerous and difficult for the matadors as the bulls have plenty of room to maneuver.
Lisa is quite learned in the Ronda school of bullfighting and dazzled many a tapas bar patron with her extensive knowledge of bullfightery.

Whimsical twilight in Ronda, Espana

Whimsical twilight in Ronda, Espana
Originally uploaded by maujb.

Aren't these clouds amazing?

The next town on our tour of Andalucia was Ronda. It stands on a towering plateau in the mountains of Malaga Province, and is famous through Spain for the plunging river gorge which divides the medieval from the 18th century parts of the town. This gorge is known as "El Tajo" and produces some of the most amazing sunsets and cloud formations.

The surrounding countryside on the drive to Ronda is breathtaking with its dramatic hills and steep walled plateaus giving way to green manicured fields, autumn colors and the odd medieval castle.

Is it the oranges or cathedral that makes Sevilla famous?

Is it the oranges or cathedral that makes Sevilla famous?
Originally uploaded by maujb.

According to legend, Sevilla was founded by Hercules and its origins are linked with the Tartessian civilisation. It was called Hispalis under the Romans and Isbiliya with the Moors.

After the Moors were driven south a lot of the mosques were transformed into churches and discoteques. As the christian architects were so impressed with Islamic architecture they didn't have the heart to destroy it but rather incorporate Islamic design into the new Christian cathedrals. Resulting in a wonderful hybrid of architectural styles.

In 1401, this Gothic-style Cathedral was built over the Big Mosque while preserving its dome stucture, arches, minaret of Giralda as well as the patio de los naranjos (Orange trees courtyard).

Bar el Rinconcillo, Sevilla

Sevilla has the wonderful distinction inventing "tapas" and has more than a thousand bars within its city limits.

Bar el Rinconcillo, Sevilla
Originally uploaded by maujb.

The oldest of the Sevilla tapas bars was founded in 1670, and was the first stop on our Tapas crawl. After sampling bocarones, 50 different types of jamon, queso con membrillo, and lots of red red wine . . . uh we can't remember what happened after. Nuf said.

Lil Donnie and Gran Sào Jorge

Lil Donnie and Gran Sào Jorge
Originally uploaded by maujb.

On our tour of the Algarve we plowed through a butt load of cute historical towns, castles from Moors and Christians, and remnants of days of Yore. In Silves, lil Donnie found a souvenir to bring home. In Monchique, we sampled "madronha", a local moonshine similar to brandy and distilled exclusively by the Monchiquenos. Mmmmmmm smoooooth.

Trix and Mau at the edge of the old world.

Trix and Mau at the edge of the old world.
Originally uploaded by maujb.

The lovely Lisa K. (Trixie) joined us in the Algarve for a tour through old Andalucia. This is Sào Vicente the western most edge of continetal Europe where you can feel the souls of Greek, Roman, Moor and European wanderers yearning for the chocolate of the new world.

Moorish Fountain in Sintra

Moorish Fountain in Sintra
Originally uploaded by maujb.

Sintra is a lovely historical town a half hour from Lisboa by train, full of castles, churches, gardens and several medieval neighborhoods within its labyrinth walls.

Palacio Pena in Sintra, Portugal

Palacio Pena in Sintra, Portugal
Originally uploaded by maujb.

This quintessentially whimisical fairy tale castle was built in 1840 as a royal summer residence and is the most important example of Portuguese architecture in the Romantic period.

This is where Walt Disney found the inspriration for his own whimisical castle in the Kingdom of Anaheim.

Tribute to the Explorers Monument, Lisboa

Tribute to the Explorers Monument, Lisboa
Originally uploaded by maujb.

In 205 BC the Romans began their two-century reign in Lisbon, and it became the most important city in the western Iberian region.

In 714 the Moors arrived from Morocco, replacing a succession of northern tribes. By 1147 the Moors' luck had turned and the Christians finally recaptured Lisbon.

The 15th century brought the Age of Discoveries - Portugal's golden era of sea exploration. One of the greatest discoveries being the sea route to India and the founding of the Goa Rave scene. The wealth from these expeditions transformed Lisbon into the opulent seat of a vast empire.

Hey lady can I take your donkey for a ride?

Hey lady can I take your donkey for a ride?
Originally uploaded by maujb.

While in Lisboa we enjoyed all things Portagee, from fresh grilled sardines, several types of fine Port wine, and the quintessential Bacalau - an aged salt-preserved Cod that tastes as good as it sounds.

Bom Dia! Lisboa

Bom Dia! Lisboa
Originally uploaded by maujb.

After leaving the new world we arrived in the old world at the port of Lisboa, Portugal. With its seven hills, charming neighborhoods, trolley cars, and orange bridge that suspiciously resembles the Golden Gate (same architect), Lisboa reminds us a bit of San Francisco. Aawwwwww!
Since it largely survived the earthquake of 1755, the area still retains much of its original layout and the architectural style of an old world city.

Drivin' us Batty

One strange and fun experience we didn't mention about our last week in Buenos Aires, are the bats that would fly into the apartment every evening at dusk. Fortunately, they were not vampire bats. Just fleshy little brown bodies with wings that would fly in our windows and flop around on the floor while Don shrieked and Mau scooted them back out into the warm night.

One more terrible and horrible experience we recently lived through. After having a wonderful adventure in Portugal, Spain and Morocco we had a CD burned of our award-winning photos here in Morocco only to find an old Gypsy woman, or Berber woman, or dumb-ass shopkeeper had put a curse on us and ALL the photos vanished from the camera and had not burned properly to the CD.
Sad result: NO PHOTOS.
After painfully passing through all of the Kubler-Ross' stages of grief, we re-visited denial and returned to the photo shop to find our lost photos in the "garbage" file. After multiple trips, CD burnings, tears of frustration, and relapse into alcohol consumption, we finally got our photos back in a usable format.
And now we proudly present "The Lost Photos of Andalucia."